Now that you've taken care of the energy being wasted "through the roof" how about those walls and what energy minded construction techniques can be utilized? What type of construction makes up your walls and what are the best ways to go about eliminating some of the waste caused by air infiltration? Let's define what home remodeling Austin, Texas means.
Any remodeling contractor will tell you that Very old buildings have wall construction which is limited only by the materials that were available at the building sight for any specific time. These structures were normally composed of sod, masonry, or logs that were chinked with mud set into their joints relying on the principle of thermal mass. By building thicker walls the same logic of the R-factor was used. It took longer for outside temperatures to transfer into the building through these massive resistant walls into the living space.
Once lumber became available it was used at a premium. The presence of clapboard or weather board construction came about using one by (one inch thick) boards in varying widths on both sides of a 2x4 stud forming the outside walls.
The joints between the boards allowed air to infiltrate the building. Batten boards were nailed over these joints on the exterior to eliminate some of the air flow and later cheesecloth covered by wallpaper was applied on the inside boards. The walls still had too much air infiltration relying on the dead air space and the composition of the wood itself to comprise the R-factor. Finally 1/4" sheetrock was applied over the wallpaper as a first generation drywall application.
If this clapboard system is plaguing your building you must access which side of the wall you need to attack. Do you need new exterior siding that allows you to install and bury additional rigid insulation or desire a newer looking drywall finish on the interior? The only way to gain access to your stud space for applying batt insulation is to remove one side of the clap boards. The kraft face must be turned toward your living space to create a vapor barrier against the outside and R-13 is the thickest product you can place in a four inch cavity. Don't be misled by an offer using a blown in product that can be held up by wiring and never reach the bottom of the wall cavity which defeats the whole process.
Once you have accomplished this task you have helped to maintain your envelope but you need to look down. If your floor is on a pier and beam structure do you have an underpinning present? It's purpose is to stop the wind from robbing you of additional infiltration from below your floor. If present, the underpinning can eliminate having to install insulation between your floor joist. It acts by literally raising the constant temperatures that existing naturally below ground. This natural occurence will temper the crawl space beneath your floor joists and prevent energy robbing infiltration. You now have a reasonably efficient envelope given your existing situation.
Check out Part 1: Ceilings which covers your attic wastes
Check our Part 3: The Envelope covering penetrations and their energy wastes
Photo Credit: Energy Savings By Prophet of the Haze
